Men expect from cosmetics rapid effect and universality. “Male agent” is supposed to be rapidly applied and instantly absorbed through the skin - no more than 30 seconds. Manufacturers take account of this and create light gel base products to absorb quickly and leave no trace. Their composition is dominated by natural ingredients with different functions: cleansing, moisturizing, smoothing, refreshing. Most of them are multifunctional – moisturize and protect, fight against aging and give the effect of suntan.
As Euromonitor experts say, men’s grooming in Russia performed better than overall beauty and personal care in 2013. Along with increasing awareness and growing concerns about self-image, especially in the larger cities, men’s grooming recorded healthy growth in 2013. Men’s grooming products, due to the growth from low base, are the drivers of a lot of beauty and personal care categories.
Gillette Group led men’s grooming in 2013 with a value share of 40%. The leading position of the company was due to historically strong brand awareness and the company’s specialization in men’s grooming products, particularly shaving. Gillette Group’s products have a wide presence in modern retail channels, which makes them more accessible in terms of cost and location.
According to a Nielsen Global Survey of respondents with Internet access, in Russia, more than half (52%) of men are making shopping decisions for food, household and personal care products, and 43 percent are making shopping purchases. In fact, the survey shows that Russian men are active, independent shoppers who pre-plan before arriving to the store (71%), collect related information and opinions for reference before shopping (60%) and shop around before making a purchase (63%). Men are not only making informed shopping decisions, they’re also more willing than women to pay a higher price – especially for products that are designed specifically for them (47% men vs. 40% women). Men are also more brand conscious than women (51% vs. 43%), and they are earlier adopters of new products (40% vs. 34%). In Russia, male products are typically 10–20 percent more expensive than the same female or unisex brand. But while more Russian men are taking a more active role in shopping than men in other developed and mid-developed countries, the share of male-oriented products in Russia is not as big as it is abroad. Better assortment, coupled with marketing strategies that speak directly to men across the platforms they pay attention to, are needed to bridge the gap, say Nielsen experts.
Mass products manufacturers pay special attention to anti-aging product properties that help to restore the freshness of the face in the morning, decrease eye dark circles and puff, and etc. For men who want to get rid of gray hair several brands offer not only hair dying but also toning agents. Experts believe that these product categories have great future on the market.
According to Synovate Comcon survey, in 2013, shaving products used 73.5 % of men, toilet water – 66.3%, deodorants – 57.3% and hand creams – 9.8%.
TOP- 5 skincare brands: Nivea was used by 17.9 % of men, "Chistaya Linia" - 11 %, Avon – 8.3%, Oriflame – 7.7%, and Clearasil – 6, 2%.
TOP- 5 perfumery brands: Adidas –14,3%, Avon – 11,9%, Hugo Boss – 11,3%, Gillette – 10,9% and Oriflame – 7,3%.
TOP-5 aftershave brands: Gillette – 35,9%, Nivea – 31,5%, Arko -– 23%, Old Spice – 9,6%, and Arko Men – 8,5%.
Men prefer to buy cosmetics and perfumery in specialized stores (52%), in super- and hypermarkets (38%); the share of buyers from individual distributors is small – just 6%.
Premium bath and shower products designed for men demonstrate the highest growth rates in value terms. However, premium products attract a limited number of people living mainly in big cities such as Moscow or Saint Petersburg. Premium cosmetics for men account for just 5% of the total male cosmetics market in Russia.
Male hair care in the mass segment is another promising niche that is worth noting.
Cosmetics for men showed an increase of 6%. Deodorants, despite one percent upturn in quantitative terms, did not change in value terms – they are stable enough to hold their high rates being an essential for men.
More men are adopting a daily grooming regimen as part of their lifestyle and fragrance is one of the important and rapidly growing. The Canadean reports that will achieve a value and volume GAGR of 10.4 and 9.0 per cent between 2012 and 2017.
Older men are driving the growth in the male toiletries market in Russia, according to Canadean. The value of the market is set to rise from US$892.6m in 2013 to $982m in 2017, an increase of just over 10%, with older men looking for convenient products that fit with their increasingly busy lifestyles.
The desire to look healthy and stylish is driving sales in multifunctional products such as post-shave cosmetics that offer SPF protection and moisturizing properties to refresh ageing skin. Targeting the ‘time factor’ is a major key to success for marketers, with products meeting this need accounting for $211m in sales in 2013, the analysts said.
In terms of market by value share, disposable razors and blades are the largest category in the overall male Russian toiletries market at 63%, while aftershaves and colognes and post-shave cosmetics are predicted to see the largest growth between 2013 and 2017.
Such category like make-up is presented on the market but still is a niche products.
In recent years, mass segment of male cosmetics (bath & body, as well as shaving products) show steady growth. The fastest growing category is hair care, while razors demonstrate a bit slowly dynamic. But it must be emphasized that all sectors show a positive trend.
Shaving products are the most well-developed on the market, and Russian men are very familiar with the products manufactured by the key players. At the same time the category aftershave has a great potential for development. Skin care is at least promising category.
Russian men tend to trust on their previous experiences when it comes to buying cosmetics products. Also the opinion of family members is important, but the role of advertising on TV, magazines or Internet remains quite surprisingly very little.
Overall, men spend more on cosmetics than in recent years. Assortment diversification and a trend to a healthy lifestyle play an important role in the segment grow. Manufacturers take into account the characteristics of male skin and a healthy lifestyle trends and offer new products to their customers.
Last year Russian direct sale company Mirra presented shaving foam with anti-inflammatory and soothing effect. Rich formulae is ideal for a comfortably shave even for the most sensitive and irritated skin. Amines cellulose provide excellent distribution of foam and razor glide. The combination of anti-inflammatory properties of Boswellia and the relaxation effect of wheat protein (Deepaline) protect the skin from irritation while shaving. The foam softens and moisturizes the skin.
Cosmetic line for men Phyto Expert (Kalina - Unilever) is based on natural plant extracts. Among recent launches is shampoo to strengthen hair. It has been designed taking into account the structural features of men's hair, thereby achieving the maximum effect. Active formulae restores hair from the inside, nourishing and strengthening them without weighting. Ginseng has a tonic effect , stimulates hair growth. Burdock root strengthens and improves the hair structure. The result is strong, healthy hair without weighting and protection from the negative effects of the environment.
The company Floresan specially designed for men after shave balm For Men active. Formulae with aloe vera extract and vitamin E soothes and protects the skin from inflammation and accelerates its regeneration, menthol cools, tones and moisturizes the skin, leaving it feeling fresh.
Men choose a simple, versatile decision for hair care. The last trend is product like shampoo for hair and body "2-in-1". A man need only one bottle to completely refresh a body and hair. As before, they still neglected air conditioning and extra care products - they simply do not see them as must-have. Russian men are rational and conservative in their choice: once they try a product, they are loyal to it for a long time.
Euromonitor predicts, that Russian men will care more about their appearance and thus will lean towards effective beauty and personal care solutions. Niche areas, which previously had a very low presence in the country, will register the highest development in terms of both quality and quantity. Russian men, who are increasingly caring more about their hygiene and appearance, will prefer to have separate products for themselves, rather use family-targeted goods. The formation of stronger gender segmentation will be supported by manufacturers, which will continue to educate potential consumers with the help of Russian women. They will indulge their men with these products and protect their higher-value beauty and personal care products from being used.
Prepared specially for Cosmetics Business Markets