Facial care is the key driver to growth in Europe and as all experts agree it’s the segment where new technologies and product launches take place.
Euromonitor positions Russian facial care as the fifth largest in Europe with 8% year-on-year growth and further average dynamics of 9% up to 2017. Russian consumers are very fastidious in their choice of facial skin care, they prefer a multi-functional products such as BB-creams, anti-aging treatments, moisturizing creams and serums.
Despite slowdown in economy and income Russian women still looking for a premium skin care and it has led brands to introduce more sophisticated products contributing to the premiumization trend.
Another particular consumer trend for facial care in Russia is using all range of products for a daily treatment. For an average western woman, it is enough to just put some moisturizer, while a Russian woman would use an entire range of cosmetics, including regular facial masks, peeling creams and primers. Russian women also start to use anti-aging creams at an earlier age, which is an advantage for the brands. They are also more responsible about their diets.
Russian women love all things natural, and almost everyone has a recipe for her grandma’s homemade cream. The market players agree that in contrast to mass-market cosmetics consumers, the fans of “organic” products managed to preserve their buying power and did not search for cheaper stuff. For example, the skin products of Weleda leading organic brand had the same sales dynamics as before. The organic products are gradually loosing the privilege edge of the Capital becoming a frequent preference of regional people.
In addition to combat the signs of aging today its main problem many women find it rough, earthy tone. Fatigue, stress, bad weather - is not the best way affects the colour of the face. Also, many women are concerned about the appearance of age spots.
Overall, cosmeceuticals are the most promising category in the segment. An aging population concerned with holding onto their youth is an important task. Experts note the trend toward higher priced formulae as a most effective solution for the skin. Consumers prefer to buy more targeted products when looking for anti-aging benefits, and brands offer them wide range of products to satisfy their demands.
Chemical & Biological Association at Russian Academy of Sciences “Firma Vita” Ltd just launched YOUTH GEMS for mature skin and as a repair complex after beauty salon medical treatment. High-performance cosmetics YOUTH GEMS based on its main active ingredients and is provided by three different technologies: the action of peptides that stimulate the function of the various structural elements of the skin; the action of antioxidants that prevent free radicals production and the action of bioflavonoids that enhance the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity components.
The formulae contains active peptide cocktail of natural complex of the thymus, blood vessels, cartilage, the pineal gland, and antioxidant patented complex Neovitin® derived from ginseng cell biomass having different points of application.
YOUTH GEMS stimulates the regeneration of skin cells, blood circulation and microcirculation, collagen-elastin synthesis and the skin appears in lifting, improve texture, colour and moisture of the skin.
A rich palette of natural oils – argan, jojoba, grape seed and herbal extracts smoothes fine lines and softens the skin, improves its elasticity. In cosmetic products YOUTH GEMS introduced specially designed moisturizing complex.
Russian matufacturer Kora Laboratiry, given the current needs of the market, has released new items cleansers presented in two versions: cleansing mousse for problem and oily skin and mousse cleanser for sensitive and dry skin. The company focused on key target such as natural issue (herbal ingredients), innovation (the latest generation of active ingredients) and safety (no colourants, silicones, parabens).
The formulae includes powerful sebum regulatory complex (mousse for problem and oily skin) with prebiotics, lactulose, salicylic acid, and the active moisturizing complex (mousse for dry and sensitive skin) with panthenol and insulin, and phytocomplex of herbal ingredients (mint, horsetail, dandelion, violet, St. John's wort, sage, thyme), allow to solve a particular problem.
The main question asked by the Russian consumers today – why spend a lot more for professional cosmetics, given an avalanche of affordable products in the market? Noteworthy, residents of megapolicies have become more practical and competent; they are well versed in wide product ranges on store shelves and realize that low price implies that the formula, design and raw materials are cheap and hardly effective. The consumers understand that "magical" effect of such cosmetics is unlikely. When the skin needs special care, for example, if it is dehydrated, flaky or has such problems as acne, you need the brands of professional or pharmacy cosmetics.
“Fleur d'orange” line by “Adelaide" company includes a full range of natural cosmetic ingredient and takes into account the needs of the skin at all stages of its life cycle and maximize their own potential of youth and health. The collection consists of day and night cream, cream for eye contour with lifting effect and cream for hands and nails. Formulae of all products do not contain parabens, mineral oils, silicones, synthetic colourants.
Cream with a soft texture helps fight the first signs of aging, models facial contours, moisturizes and strengthens the skin. Synergistic complex of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and D-panthenol effectively moisturizes the skin. The patented complex of natural extracts (orange, lemon, tangerine, apple, strawberry and sugar cane) has a lifting effect and refreshes skin tone and relief. Walnut oil and allantoin intensely nourish, restore and soothe the skin.
At the heart of the effectiveness of the cream 4 patented component.
- Uniplant Citric Eg® – fruit complex (lemon, orange, mandarin, apple, strawberry, sugar cane) – moisturizes and improves lymphatic drainage and microcirculation, stimulates cell renewal, evens out skin tone.
- Xyliance® (at the base of wheat bran) has moisturizing and regenerating properties, designed for sensitive skin.
- Cristalhyal ® (hyaluronic acid 100% vegetable origin) is the most famous moisturizing ingredient, prevents premature aging.
- Cetiol®Sensoft is a modern alternative to silicone, gives the skin a silky smoothness.
In the Mediterranean collections are especially interesting two products - Rosemary facial cream for all skin types and Lavandula for dry and sensitive skin. Firstly, they are distinguished by a stylish and convenient packaging – transparent dispenser. Second, the rich natural composition makes them very effective. The formulae of both products include complex in the microcapsules Vits Primasponge® (agar, alginate, chitosan) - a highly complex contain essential vitamins in bioavailable form (A, E, B, PP), provides transportation of active ingredients directly into the deeper layers of the skin.
According to Synovate Comcon survey, over one half (55%) of Russian population use skin care products, mainly women – 86% of them use skin care products; among men – 19% (one in five). Women aged 25-44 make the backbone of target audience (most active users of facials). Day cream use 51%; night cream – 37%, hygienic lipstick – 31%; gel and facial wash – 31% and makeup remover (lotion, toner , etc.) – 27%.
Among TOP-5 skincare brands are: Avon with 23%, Nivea with 22%, Chistaya Linia with 21%, Cherny Zhemchug with 18% and Oriflame with 14%. Unilever remains a leader in the market of skin care products with a market share of 12%, abating L'Oréal one percentage point only.
Specialized stores remain the dominating distribution channel for facial care products, thereby the most aggressive sales of these cosmetics are seen in pharmacies despite their surcharges are often higher than in other channels of distribution.
Facial skin care segment is highly competitive and will remain so for international and local players. Russian manufacturers in respond of the market trends diversify their offer in terms of new technologies, formats and textures. Experts predict that in a future this category will demonstrate constant dynamics in terms of figures and new launches.
Prepared specially for Cosmetics Business Markets